The Slow Death of Spain’s Menú del Día
Food is at the heart of Spanish culture. From social life to business deals, everything revolves around food---above all, lunch. How did Mariano Rajoy, then prime minister, react in 2018 when faced with an unprecedented (前所未有的) vote of no confidence? He went to lunch ... for eight hours.
The three-course menú del día (menu of the day) has been the cornerstone of Spanish food and social life for generations.
The fixed-price menú del día as we now know it was first introduced in the mid-1960s as the “tourist menu,” which helped to ensure that an affordable meal would be within the financial reach of all Spaniards.
But now working life has changed. Fewer people split the workday with a two-hour break for lunch. “People are realizing that an hour is long enough for lunch,” says José Luis Casero. Furthermore, a decreasing percentage of Spaniards have full-time jobs. Trade unions (工会) estimate 33 percent of jobs that have been created since 2012 are temporary. New professions such as delivery riders do not receive paid lunch breaks. Throughout many Spanish cities today, what may have once been restaurants serving menú del día have already been reborn as kebab (烤肉串) shops or, in more touristy areas, tapas bars (西班牙小食吧).
These days, the tradition only continues to endure in small numbers of restaurants in Spain. Just around the corner from city hall and with mayor Ada Colau being one of its regulars, Cervantes has been a family-run restaurant since the early 1980s. It is now managed by the Esteve sisters: Glòria, Cristina and Gemma. The C13 menú of classic Spanish dishes is chalked up on a board.
“I cook more or less what my mother cooked,” says Glòria. “I know what I know and people like that. It’s all homemade.” “All kinds of people eat here, from officials to builders,” adds Gemma. “There’re people who come to Cervantes for the first time and say: ‘Wow, I didn’t know this sort of place still existed.’ ‘Well,’ I say, ‘we’ve always been here.’”
A.It changes with the seasons, but only slightly. |
B.They are less likely to honor the menú tradition. |
C.They often make just enough to maintain the families that run them. |
D.People see changes in a place like this as an attack on their lifestyle. |
E.All of these types of restaurants had to offer at least one of these on its menus until the law was changed in 2010. |
F.Consequently, the restaurants serving these menus — generally low on aesthetics (美观性) and high on value for money — have been a feature of the urban landscape. |
Dining in China: Culture Shock
Before coming to China, I thought of Chinese food as General Tso’s chicken, egg rolls, and fortune cookies.
For one, the community style of dining was new to me. In America, I was used to sharing an appetizer with someone sometimes and then everyone ordering their own main course. In China, many dishes are ordered and placed on a lazy Susan. The table is spun around and you grab what you like. And we’re not just talking a starter, a main, and dessert here; a Chinese dinner is a marathon of food.
Using chopsticks was also new to me and took quite some time to get used to. It was always embarrassing at first when I couldn’t grab something tasty from the moving table and had to wait until the next time around. After years of practice, I can now confidently snatch a peanut as it’s flying by me on a lazy Susan-practice really does make perfect! In the first few months, I was laughed at so many times by Chinese people while they watched me struggle with chopsticks. That probably explains why one of my favorite things to do while dining out in many Western restaurants in town is watching young, trendy Chinese people struggle with their forks and knives.
I had eaten chow mein before, as well as egg fried rice and Kung Pao chicken, but there were plenty of Chinese dishes that gave me culture shock in my first few months here.
Despite all of this food-related culture shock, I can honestly say that one of the best things about living here is the food and dining out. Chinese cuisine is so complex and varied that you could spend an entire lifetime here and not taste it all.
A.People often ask me about what food I miss the most from back home. |
B.I understand that Chinese food is closely related to the Chinese way of life. |
C.After arriving here, I quickly found out that not a single one of those things is served in China. |
D.For example, Chinese people enjoy eating just about any part of an animal. |
E.When Chinese people place an order, they are expecting a series of courses. |
F.Usually it starts out with some cold dishes, and then moves into a wide variety of main courses. |
It’s interesting when you think about how Japan is a nation that appreciates the virtues of silence and good manners, and yet when it comes to eating noodles, Japanese people can be the loudest in the world.
According to lifestyle website grapee.jp, slurping when eating noodles is encouraged in Japanese culture. It’s believed that taking air into your mouth can enhance the flavor of the noodles, and that it helps cool down the noodles. It’s also considered to be a way to show appreciation for the dish. Sometimes, just making the noise alone seems to make the noodles more enjoyable.
It wasn’t until a new expression - “noodle harassment” ,or “hu-hara” in Japanese - came out last year on social media that Japanese people started to realize that the slurping noise is making some foreign visitors uncomfortable.
As a response, Japanese instant noodle maker Nissin introduced a so-called noise-canceling fork earlier this year. The fork, which looks like an electric toothbrush, is connected wirelessly to a smartphone. When the person using the fork starts to slurp, the fork sends a signal to the person’s phone, making it play a sound to mask the slurping noise.
“The fork is a solution to the ‘noodle harassment’ issue, particularly as the number of tourists visiting Japan increases,” said the company, according to Euro News.
But is it really necessary?
Dining traditions do vary. What’s considered to be proper table manners in one country is likely to be seen as rude in another. In India, for example, people eat with their hands because they think in this way they build a connection with the food. However, people who are used to eating with utensils(餐具)might find it uncomfortable to get their hands covered with oil and bits of food. But this eating method is part of India’s culture, just like Japan’s slurping is part of its own.
“So, if you are eating noodles, whether that's ramen(拉面), udon(乌冬面), or soba(荞麦面), please slurp,” wrote the reporter Brian Ashcraft on blog Kotaku. “If anyone gets annoyed while you are doing that, pay them no mind because they’re missing the point entirely.”
【小题1】Which of the following does not contribute to the popularity of slurping?A.It is helpful to cool down the noodles. |
B.It helps to draw other people’s attention. |
C.It can strengthen the flavor of the noodles. |
D.It is a way to show enjoyment from the noodles. |
A.Digest. | B.Enjoyment. | C.Annoyance. | D.Embarrassment. |
A.To inform readers of Indians’ dining habit. |
B.To show that Indians are rude about eating. |
C.To present similarity between Japan and India. |
D.To provide an example of various eating traditions. |
A.It is impolite to ignore other people's anger. |
B.Japanese shouldn’t slurp when eating noodles. |
C.It is necessary to respect different eating cultures. |
D.People cannot understand the pleasure of slurping at all. |
Growing up in a Southern family, big meals were the norm. Every meal for my nuclear family of four provided enough food for eight. Each Sunday, when we drove to my grandmother’s home for lunch, there was more than enough food.
When I lost my job, though, my handling of extra food suddenly hit a barrier.
But instead of cooking a lot and then simply eating the leftovers, I had a new solution that worked well with my belief in showing love through food:
Such a small act can bring large amounts of joy to anyone in these hard times. And in unfavorable situations, it’s an act that allows us to develop friendship and show love while we must, still, remain apart.
A.Continue cooking for my family. |
B.Bringing the extras as meals to my friends. |
C.It was the one part of our new world I couldn’t refuse. |
D.In the shock of the change, I cooked less for about a year. |
E.In my adult life before unemployment, this tradition stayed with me. |
F.Serving extra food was the way that we showed love to one another. |
G.But doing so seemed contrary to the generosity I had been brought up to believe in. |
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